Best French Kiss Ever! (Impressionist's Paris) About This Page:

[DouglasE]

The Best French Kiss Ever!

This is the story of my adventures in France. I was traveling for the first time ever outside North America totally on my own. This is a true story from my perspective. There is nothing scandalous so the names have not been changed. Probably the only thing rated PG about this journey is my use of language which sometimes is questionable as I take after my grandmother who swears like a sailor. This is the fourth part of the story so far. If you have not read the previous installments, I highly suggest you start at the beginning so it all makes more sense.

Part I: Loire River Valley

Part II: Bienvenue à Paris

Part III: Historic Heart of Paris

[DouglasE]

Tuesday, 5 September, 2006

Impressionist’s Paris

My breakfast at the hotel



The breakfast bar area at the hotel



This morning one of my fellow travelers introduced me to my favorite part of breakfast. I made myself a little ham and cheese sandwich on a baguette. I don’t know what made it tastier, the wonderful cheese, the butter, or the baguette. I have a feeling it was the baguette. I’m a sucker for good, fresh bread.

[DouglasE]

Why am I always hungry! Here's that ham and cheese on a baguette.



I had a little over two years in which to plan for this trip. I spent a good portion of my leisure time during that period hanging out at book stores in the travel section. I had done oodles of research. I read every Paris and France guidebook that is published. I read “Let’s Go”, “Rough Guide”, “Lonely Planet”, “Fodor’s”, “Frommer’s”, “Michelin”, “Rick Steves” and others besides. Now I do not have a photographic memory by any stretch of the imagination. However, I did retain a decent amount of information. As a result, as our group would walk around, it would not be uncommon for me to make comments or tell anecdotes about sights we would see to anyone who was walking in close proximity. After a short while, some of my fellow travelers would ask me questions as they would pop up. Frequently, I would have an answer. Imagine that!?! In fact, I thought it was pretty funny how one of my fellow travelers, Kareen, had come to rely on my knowledge. She asked me a question sometime mid-week about something we passed by. I replied, “I don’t know” and gave her a look that basically said ‘I’ve never been to Paris, what makes you think I would know something like that’. She laughed, and said well you already know so much I figured you would know that too. I laughed back and nodded how I understood and explained why it was that I knew as much as I did.

Pretty early on in the tour experience, Arnaud started to call me his “assistant guide”. I was more than happy to help out anyone. Plus, others helped me out with things on the occasional moments I would experience a brain fart or two. Later on in the week, Arnaud took me aside and reminded me that the longer two to three week European Rick Steves tours employ an assistant guide. He suggested that I should apply to become an assistant guide and was quite enthusiastic about my doing just that. So, if in the future you happen to see me hiking through the Alps, don’t be all that surprised.

Arnaud walked us over to the Métro station. As we walked Arnaud almost got rammed into by another pedestrian. The person was totally oblivious to his existence. Arnaud gave the person a nasty look and then looked at me as if to say, “Can you believe that?” At other times, people just march directly on. If someone does not move there will be a “head on collision”. I told Arnaud and another tour member that walking through Paris is like a game of chicken (For Arnaud, I explained the game of chicken). They both agreed how crazy pedestrians in the city can be. I attribute it to egocentrism. The same thing exists in Philadelphia, just not quite as bad as in Paris.

When we eventually emerged up to the surface, we were at the Abesses station. The station is one of the few remaining examples of the Art Nouveau style of métro entrances. It even has the full glass awning top. Arnaud introduced us to local guide, Iris. Iris is an American who has been living in the Montmartre neighborhood of Paris for ten years. This is where we say “à bientôt!” to Arnaud.

[DouglasE]

The Abbesses Metro station





Iris leads us on a walking tour of her neighborhood, Montmartre. Our first stop is an example of 21st century art at Square Jehan Rictus. Iris was happy to show that art is not something from centuries past gathering cobwebs in a musty old museum. Art continues to be made today. We gathered in front of a huge tile mural with expressions of love in 311 different languages. Each phrase says the same thing, “I love you”. Maybe when you visit the mural you will have the “cultural experience” to which we were treated. When we arrived, a probable homeless person was taking a sponge bath at the public faucet (otherwise known as a whore’s bath). Others might have been put off by that, but I was quite pleased. I’m glad he’s taking care of himself and keeping himself clean. Now the Métro will be one person less smelly. After cleaning himself off, he got dressed and moved off to start his day.


My local tour guide through Montmartre, Iris





The "I Love You" mural

[DouglasE]

Montmartre is the highest point in Paris. I believe that; because in our little walk we did a fair amount of climbing inclines. Today, we got to see Paris in action. Everyone else has started their work and school day. Montmartre got to be popular due to the availability of inexpensive wine. It was not considered a part of the city. It was outside the city walls and gates. If you transported the wine in to the city you were taxed. Might as well stay in Montmartre and consume the wonderful wine and have some fun. Montmartre also had low cost of living. Wherever you find cheap housing and cheap wine, you will find artists. Montmartre became the home of many world-famous artists. You know how if you visit Los Angeles you can take tours finding the homes of the stars. Well, today it was just like that only the stars are the stars of the art world and another century. Iris took us to Vincent Van Gogh’s house where he lived for two years. It was during this time that he started to experiment with color, light, and more freedom.


Vincent slept here!




Next, Iris told us stories about Henri Toulouse-Lautrec. I distinctly remember her telling us how he enjoyed wandering through the winding streets of Montmartre with a friend who was incredibly tall. Henri was a tiny man. The contrast of the two men in top hats must have been a sight indeed. Iris pointed out his house and art studio.


Henri's residence and studio is on the left hand side. It is the building with red brick.

[DouglasE]

One of the last actual windmills in Montmartre can be spotted above the leafy trees in the center of this picture



We spotted one of the only two true original windmills left in Paris. It’s at this point that Iris explained about the mining of gypsum. Gypsum rocks were mined all throughout this neighborhood for the creation of plaster. This is where plaster of Paris comes from.

Iris gets a special kick out of local celebrity, dance music diva, Dalida. Dalida was a disco queen of the 70’s and 80’s. According to Iris, Dalida was the French Madonna. We had to be very quiet as we sneaked by Dalida’s home because the neighbors are tired of having to deal with devoted fans making pilgrimages.

[DouglasE]

My favorite story that Iris told is actually a well known French children’s book written by Marcel Ayme. It is about the man who could walk through walls. The lead character is a schlubby, unsuccessful drone of a man, unhappy with life. One day he is given a pill for a nasty cold. It turns out that the pill transforms the man. He discovers he now has the ability to walk through walls. How horrific! Scared by this change in his life he asks the man who gave him the pill to help him reverse his situation. The man gives him a second pill and says if he takes this pill exactly one year from the day of taking the first pill his life will go back to normal. Our lead guy puts the pill into an old aspirin bottle and stuffs it into his medicine cabinet at home. Now he has a whole year to wait. In the mean time he discovers there are advantages to walking through walls. Eventually, he gains a certain degree of wealth from embarking on a life of crime. This new found wealth allows him to start to date. He gains a beautiful new girlfriend. The money finances a nicely decorated set of digs. Life is great! One day he gets the most awful headache. When he goes to his medicine cabinet he searches only to find one last bottle with one last aspirin. He swallows it. Yes, you’ve guessed it. It’s that pill from a year ago. He hears his girlfriend calling for him and walks through the wall to answer her call only to find himself stuck in the wall. The magic pill has taken effect and he is permanently encased in the wall. Iris brought us to the fun sculpture created by Jean Marais in 1989 that immortalizes the end of the story.

The Man Who Walks Through Walls by Jean Marais

[DouglasE]

Montmartre has been the home of artists. It could be argued that no other 20th century artist had more impact than Pablo Picasso. Picasso had his art studio here in Montmartre at Le Bateau Lavoir, “The Laundry Boat”. It was at this studio where he developed cubism. It would have been neat if they had restored the studio to its heyday of 1907and we could pretend we were wandering around his studio. As it is we could only look at photographs of the studio from its façade.

Earlier in the day one of my fellow travelers was wondering where the Parisians take their children to play. Iris’ next stop was Place Suzanne Buisson. There we got to see some toddlers at play at a modern playground. They were climbing stairs, slipping down slides, and running around. At the back of the playground, we saw an old familiar figure in the form of a stone statue. St. Denis was carrying his head, as always. We stopped here to learn a whole lot of wonderful information about Montmartre. It was so wonderful that now over five months later I’ve promptly forgotten. I loved hearing all the different stories that Iris told. I just wish I could remember half of them. But it did make touring more meaningful and I’m grateful for the experience. I believe from here we were able to spy the window of Renoir’s house.

It's amazing that St. Denis doesn't misplace that head of his. I surely would if mine were detachable like that.



This is Carol, Christine, George, and Miko listening to Iris chat about Montmartre

[DouglasE]

Place Dalida featured a sculptured bust of who else, but Dalida. I’ve never been to San Francisco, but I can imagine. The streets of Montmartre remind me of the ups and downs and twists and turns of what San Francisco must be like. Iris took us up one street only to start down another that leads to the vineyard of Montmartre. We weren’t able to visit the Clos Montmartre Vineyard, but Iris used the opportunity to discuss the virtues of wine production and why it was so important to the area becoming popular. From the vineyard we were able to spy the famous cabaret venue, Au Lapin Agile.

We trudged up and up; up past the Montmartre Museum, closed for the day. Pierre Auguste Renoir, Dufy and Utrillo all lived at this building at one point or another. Iris took many opportunities to discuss the lives and artwork of the artists who lived in Montmartre: Renoir, Toulouse-Lautrec, Utrillo, Picasso, Van Gogh. She brought along a notebook filled with photocopies of artwork that illustrated the point that she would make.

NEXT: Adieu to Iris; I loose my group; I gain a tuna sandwich and a crêpe.

Dalida and all her hotness captured in a sculpture bust



On the right is the Clos Montmartre vineyard behind the green fence and after that is the famed Au Lapin Agile cabaret venue



This is a reconstructed windmill at Montmartre



Our group climbs the winding streets of the Montmartre neighborhood. Who needs a stairmaster?



On the road to Sacre Coeur

[lauren-roxy]

Wonderful updates Douglas!!! I had to laugh about your comment on the man taking a bath! Beautiful photos!! Can't wait for more!!

[chezp]

What great updates Douglas - absolutely fascinating to read and I certainly learnt a lot more about Paris than I ever knew before!

[Colexis Mom]

Fantastic updates and pictures Douglas

[DouglasE]

This is the courtyard outside of St. Pierre-de-Montmartre where our group gathered. Peaceful, isn't it?





L’Église de St. Pierre-de-Montmartre, a Benedictine church dating from 1147 is where our group meets up with Arnaud. It was founded by Louis VI and his wife Adelaide. Apparently, Louis and Adelaide did not get on all that well. Louis was not all that interested in sharing a bed with Adelaide. Iris and I had a little conversation about their ability to produce an heir. Eventually, they do. Their son, Louis VII becomes king of France. He was the French king who was Eleanor of Aquitaine’s first husband. Inside the church are four gray columns that are believed to be from the original pagan temple. The columns indicate the origin of the word Montmartre. It is believed that this was the site of the Roman temple of Mars. Mount of Mars may be the original name of this area. Christians, not caring for a pagan name, later would promote Montmartre as the Mount of Martyrs (remember, St. Denis?).


Arnaud and Iris walk us over to the Sacré Cœur Basilica. The French, discouraged by the invasion of Prussians in 1870, thought they could regain their independence if they dedicated a church to praise God. Five years later they had raised enough money to start work on this five domed basilica. The outside of the church is a layer of gypsum mined from underneath Montmartre. Its brilliant white color brightens after every rainfall. Some people don’t care for the mish-mash of architectural styles, dubbing it the giant marshmallow. Others, like me, seem to understand that it stands for a vision of hope. After a little introduction to Sacré Cœur we said our “Au Revoir” to Iris. Iris was a treat. She really loves her neighborhood and is able to communicate that love ably. While at first her style was as if she was on a stage, once she got used to our group, her style shifted to a more intimate, more personal level that I preferred.

[DouglasE]

The Basilica of Sacre Coeur



It was free time! I guess we had a little over an hour to explore. I had an urgent need to use a rest room. Luckily for me there is one just off to the side of the basilica. But when I get back to the place where my group had gathered in front of the basilica they had all dispersed. After not knowing what to do for a minute, I decided to enter Sacré Cœur. A service was concluding and I got to hear the choir singing. What a treat I had! I got to listen as I wandered around and appreciate all the artwork.

From Sacré Cœur I wandered over to Place du Tertre. This small square is packed with the 21st century version of Van Gogh, Picasso, and Renoir. Artists with their easels not only are creating artwork, but have a variety of works ready for sale. There is a whole variety of talent exhibited. Some are excellent painters, others not so much. If I had more money, this would be one souvenir I would have liked to have purchased.

Paris at our feet at the steps of Sacre Coeur!



Another view of the basilica

[DouglasE]

Amy actually was one who ended up with an inadvertent souvenir. One portrait artist had approached her telling her how beautiful she was and how much he would love to practice using her as a model. She agreed that she would sit for him. When he was done, he hit her up for something like €100. She thought she was doing him a favor, not purchasing a portrait. She told him she didn’t have that much money. The charcoal artist got a bit incensed and was willing to let the portrait go for €80. She just laughed, even though she was getting rather pissed off. Finally, he asked what she was willing to pay. I can’t remember what she paid, but it was very reasonable. Good for her not to get taken in by an obvious scam artist.

As I wandered around the square I ran into Chris or Karen. She was surprised I wasn’t eating. Somehow I didn’t quite understand that this was my opportunity to pick something up to eat. For some reason I thought we were having a group meal later on. Nope. I recalled that Arnaud had pointed out some quality eateries, but I just wanted a sandwich on the go. My tour buddy led me to a shop that had tasty sandwiches. I had a tuna sandwich on a baguette that did just the trick. Chris or Karen left me to find her traveling companion. As I meandered I ran into Lisa and directed her to the same sandwich shop. While she got her sandwich I got dessert. Right across the alley was a crêperie. I had a Nutella and banana crêpe. One of my goals for this trip was to have a crêpe. Now there is a great deal of latitude when it comes to the quality provided by crêperies. To be honest, I really didn’t think my crêpe was worth writing home about. I enjoyed it. It satisfied my sweet tooth, but it was not a “wow” experience. However, since I had it on the edge of the touristy, Place du Tertre, it is entirely possible that I could have had a much better crêpe elsewhere. While I ate my crêpe, I once again took on the role of a flâneur. I didn’t have much time left before meeting everyone back at the Church of St.Pierre-de-Montmartre.

An artist at work at Place du Tertre.





Lisa is enjoying her sandwich in front of the shop that was quick, convenient and provided tasty food, which is always a good combination.





I just loved walking around and inhaling my crepe. I can't wait for a return visit to try different combinations of fillings!