25 Days on the Disney Magic to Europe About This Page:

[Zazu]

Today began too jolly early with a quick breakfast and off to our tour of Segesta & Erice.

Three bus loads were on this program, and among the guests were several kids who apparently had never learned to shut up. They talked through the entire tour, including while they were inside a church. We also had some teen girls who seem not to have understood the phrase "moderately strenuous walking tour". Sucks to be stupid, I guess.

Segesta is a town built by the indigenous peoples who were on the island before the Greeks. When the latter arrived, things did not go well, and the final result was one Greek town and Segesta being basically flattened. The only vertical things left at Segesta is a temple pediment, an amphitheater, and a church/mosque/fort/church. (When you have centuries to work with, recycling is almost inevitable.)

The temple is in the Greek style, Ionian order, but there's no evidence that the pediment ever surrounded a Greek temple. It appears the people there used a simple open altar. Pretty good shape, with all of the columns standing. From the looks of the details (and lack thereof), it appears the temple was yet unfinished. Pity, it's in really good shape for it's age. (Sorta like me!)

The amphitheater is in good enough shape to use, thanks to a bit of minor restoration work. Big, too, holding 2000 for performances occasionally held there. It also had a feature I've never seen before in Greek theaters -- one row had backrests! Still no evidence of cushions though.

The church/mosque/fort/church is a horrible mish-mosh of construction methods, walls, and materials, and is overlaid (and partly obscured) by modern wood decking. A pity, as it's an interesting site that could tell us a lot with just a bit of interpretation. A large area is under recent excavation, so there's hope that the interpretation will improve when complete.


To reach the 12th century Norman city of Erice, we began nearly at sea level and rode a skyway (eerily similar to the Disney Skyways of yore) with 8-passenger enclosed cabins. Eleven minutes later we got out at 2100 ft. elevation. Then we climbed up to the city. *Then* we climbed the city streets to the central square.

Likely because of it's inaccessible location and formidable walls, Erice has been occupied continuously for the past 9 centuries. It's been carefully maintained for that time as well. Carefully laid cobbles paved the narrow streets, steps were all square enough to be safe, and the buildings looked to be in good repair.

The town's specialty appears to be selling tchochkes and marzipan confections. We made a long stop where we watched it made, tasted samples, and many indulged in colossal canoli. A quick tour of their church and quite functional bell tower (we were serenaded at noon to quite a demonstration) finished our brief stay.

This suited us quite well, as the wind was blowing strongly and bringing fog and mist to the point those unprepared were getting quite a chill (see above remarks about foolish teens). Several of us were concerned about having to take the skyway back down, but the next event was lunch, so we set aside our concerns and hiked down to 1500 ft. where a hotel laid us a very nice lunch, complete with wine and espresso.

By the end of our meal the buses had arrived at the hotel, and we gratefully boarded for the 90 minute trip back to the ship. The first problem was getting down off the mountain, and it was solved by traveling a "panoramic highway". This is code for "narrow and steep with many hairpin curves almost too sharp for the bus". Thank goodness we didn't meet any cars coming up, as it would have required some inventive geometry to get past us.

The return to the ship was punctuated by a shout from our tour guide when we came up to the stern of the Disney Magic. Apparently she hadn't noticed in the morning that there's a big Goofy back there, and when she had looked a moment, declared that she didn't see that sort of thing very often. Yes indeed, Disney needs more ships!

Dinner at Animator's Palette. Our Head Server has moved us from our corner position to a good table with a clear view of the big monitors. Much nicer. Gonna have to boost his gratuity.

After dinner we went for a stroll on deck (despite the near gale winds). Tonight's buffet is Mexican! Ugh, like I could eat another bite. Well, maybe a cookie or two....

[MickeyWatch]

I love your posts from the Magic. We are taking the cruise leaving on July 7th, my 50th birthday. My 7 year old will be traveling with us, its her 3rd cruise and 2nd Disney cruise unless we count the one where I was pregnant. I can guarantee she won't be one of the kids "who never shuts up" or who can't do a moderate or even a strenuous walking tour without complaining.
Keep the posts coming.
Patti

[ariel14]

Great update! I feel like I am *almost* there!

[Colexis Mom]

Great update Bruce

[Disneynutinlondon]

In 2 months I'll be following in your footsteps Bruce so thanks for the TR to keep be informed.

I had heard from other cruisers that we've met on our 2 previous cruises who had done back-to-back cruises out for Port Canaveral that the "transition" WAS NOT GOOD so I can only imagine what happended in Barca !!!

[DrDolphin]

Thanks for the review of that excursion - it's on my to do list!!

[disneyfan4994]

Great update. Can't wait to hear more!

[MajorWoody]

Hello Bruce!!

Just found this thread, guess this explains why I haven't seen you at CR this month. I keep popping in every time I have a guest pickup there for my cruises.

Have fun, and thanks for some enjoyable reading.

Take care,

Bill

[Lindy]

Great report Thanks I'll be a little more prepared now for whats in store on 28th July

[JoanW]

Oh I love love love the description of the teens. Although I was one eons ago, I know I did not behave like some kids today. That's why I threaten my childen with public humiliation and dancing.

I'm going to google some of these places now and dream.

[Zazu]

First, sorry for the gap in the reports. The new Wi-Fi system has been experiencing connectivity challenges.

That plus I've been napping instead of writing.


Time to dig into the past with a visit to Herculenium.

Sadly, this historical site is located in the middle of, and entirely beneath, Naples. The area around the dig isn't exactly slums, but it's not a lot better. Think "projects". Add to that a very long walk from bus parking to the entrance and intermittent showers and the day is not off to an auspicious start.

Then we get to the dig.

Unlike Pompei, which was buried under ash and thus fairly easy to dig out, Herculenium suffered a pyroclastic flow. This is a mix of superheated gas, ash, rock, and anything-else-that-gets-in-the-way. It buried the city under a fifty-foot blanket that quickly solidified into some pretty hard rock. How hard? The edges of the dig are nearly vertical and need no reinforcement!

The rock cap kept out the looters for a very long time. As what is now Naples built on top of the flow, there was no way to know where Herculenium had been -- or even where the coastline had been, as it's now another half mile out to sea. As a result, the city wasn't discovered until the 20th century, and only a tiny area was excavated (by hand) and promptly looted.

The site was left to decay for nearly 60 years thereafter until a program begun in 2000 set out to stabilize the site, secure the materials left, and conduct proper excavation, preservation, and interpretation of the area. Presently a small site, there's yet much to be done there with work going on as we viewed the areas where work was complete. They have uncovered the old coastline, and a line of boathouses there. There's also evidence that the city continues beyond the present limits of the dig in three other directions. It's not clear when or if archeologists will get permission and funding to tear down the multi-story apartments that surround it and dig further.

Because of the intense heat from the pyroclastic flow, there's not a lot left that was flammable. Human remains, food, wine, oil, wood, and textiles all vaporized. Only a few scraps of wood are left, in lintels over doorways, in a shop rack, and one remarkable sliding door. All such are encased in glass to prevent further deterioration.

What did survive is a whole lot of the buildings. Second floors are present, though most collapsed into the first as the wood beams in floor and roof burned. There's also a lot of pottery, and though most was broken, the pieces were all there in close proximity, and the great majority have been reconstructed.

Mosaic tile was widely used for decoration, not just of floors and the occasional wall, but for exterior decoration -- possibly even some business signs. Today standard mosaic tile is 1-inch squares, but much of the best work in Herculenium was done with pieces a quarter that size, with correspondingly increased detail.

The most fragile part of what remained was the frescoes on the walls. These appear to have covered nearly every interior surface that wasn't tiled, and despite being limited to a handful of colors, the work done was remarkable. To preserve these, most have been removed to museums in Naples, Rome, and elsewhere. But if the few left are typical, they'll be well worth viewing once they figure out how to display them.

Thanks to unfortunate scheduling, the museum was closed. One good reason to return.


In the afternoon, SWMBO was determined that we would walk around Naples and sample the original pizza, which was created in the town. I was doubtful, as the sky was threatening rain or worse. SWMBO was not, however, to be deterred by such trivialities, nor by our complete lack of rain gear.

Thus we set out on our hunt for the wily native pizza partially equipped, with only a vague notion of where they might be found, and into the face of a 30 knot wind with occasional squalls.

It was not my favorite point of the cruise.

Despite my frequent offers to abandon the search and return to the safety of Pinocchio's, we soldiered on until we came upon a row of a half dozen nearly identical cafes, each with their sidewalk tables and chairs battened down as if for a hurricane, each with pizzas on their menu, and each with an overeager waiter anxious to seat us indoors.

How did we choose one? Simple -- we dined at the cafe where the barker was handing out small glasses of champagne!

The original Neopolitan pizza was made as an expression of patriotism, with the white cheese, red tomatoes, and green basil reflecting those colors in the Italian national flag. As such, it wasn't actually intended to be eaten except on holidays. It soon took on a life of it's own, and today every major city believes that they hold the one and only true recipe for the perfect pizza. Alas, I suspect they are all right, but I've more research to prove the point (thank goodness!).

The long walk back was nearly as windy as the walk out (and perhaps twice as far). We were within sight of the ship when the heavens opened and it finally began to rain in earnest. Our return to the ship was nearly as damp as if we had swum out to it, and cold to boot.

I've decided that the next time I want pizza in Naples I'll call Palo.

[Zazu]

Olbia was to be the day SWMBO chose a special excursion just for me. We were to ride a train through rural Galuria. (Heaven knows why she chose that.)

A short bus ride to the station brought us our first disappointment. The steam locomotive was out of service and we'd be riding behind a 1958 Brown-Boveri diesel instead. Cool, a whole new locomotive manufacturer! And 1930 passenger cars to boot!

Then we discover they had sold enough tickets to fill every last seat on the train. Ah well, not the first time SWMBO and I had ridden different cars on a fan trip, or so I thought. She finally managed to get on the same car as I, but thanks to a couple who thought their giant camera bag and purse each deserved a seat of it's own, we still couldn't sit together.

The scenery nearly made up for it, and the peppy performance of the loco and excellent condition of the track (faster and better than the WDW RR) were also a delight.

At the midpoint of the run, we made a stop near a lovely mountaintop reservoir for a snack -- munchies and wine, just what a fan trip needs to be complete!

On the second half I spent most of my time riding the vestibule (I *never* get a window seat -- that's one of SWMBO's rules). After nearly a year off the WDW RR, it felt good to be riding a train standing up again.


An early return let us take in the lecture. Dr. Michael Eisman (despite his unfortunate name) gave a talk on the development of the Roman forum(s). Very interesting to this student of history, architecture, and (as of March) director of a historical society named for one of the emperors.


We then -- against our better judgment -- joined our friends to view "The Art of the Story". It's a fairly new production, and consists of a series of sketches from Disney films that are supposed to illustrate story, music, lighting, et al. Despite good to excellent performances, it fails miserably for the simple reason that "The Art of the Story" has no story!

One of our friends -- a man who loves and studies Disney and theater -- declared it the worst Disney show he'd ever seen. I'm not sure I'd go that far, but it's certainly in the bottom five. Makes a good night to do laundry, which I frankly prefer, sad to say.

[Zazu]

Ah Rome! Hailed as the birthplace of western civilization (such as it is), home to popes, emperors, artists, and museums beyond number, at once a working archeological dig and a modern city. How does one even try to cover it all in a day?

One does not. One gets signed up for a tour of "Hidden Treasures of the Etruscans". No, not because the topic is of any particular interest to either of us, but because the tour will stop for lunch in a small fishing village that just happens to have the same name as SWMBO. Her name is one of those not included whenever there's a rack of nametags or mugs or whatever, so she's very hot to go see what she looks like in stone.

<Must ... surpress ... urge ... to ... make ... joke ... here ... as ... she ... reads ... this ... board.>

It turns out to be the best decision either of us has made since we decided to take the cruises!

Our guide, Miki, is a wonder. his knowledge of the Etruscan tombs is clearly in excess of what it takes for a batch of tourists, but he also shares his knowledge of Etruscan culture and history, regional history and customs, local plant life, subtle differences between a necropolis and a cemetery (including the theological perspectives of several different religions), and absolutely everything else we throw at him. I only wish my university history professors had been half so knowledgeable and entertaining.

Indeed, I made a point to get his card so I could recommend him to you whenever you get to the province of Viterbia. He also does tours for individuals and small groups in case your cruise ship hires someone else. Email Miki Ceniti at <miki100@interfree.it>. {Standard disclaimer}

SWMBO's fishing village is a delight. Contrary to our expectations, it's not on the coast, but on a large inland lake -- one big enough that a fishing village isn't unreasonable. Our lunch at a waterfront restaurant called "Il Pirata" was also excellent, as were the views from their patio.

The rest of the town is small, eminently walkable, and without the usual hills we've come to expect of European towns. While there is no hotel (and thus no crush of tourists), SWMBO did notice a bed & breakfast (with a sign in English) and began to make plans to return.


A late return caused us to miss the show, which was "Pirates of the Caribbean 3"... again. That film has been shown on board nearly a dozen times so far, and each time we were either on an excursion, at dinner, or in the case of one midnight showing, sound asleep. It's going to tick me off if we have to go buy tickets when we get home!

[Zazu]

This is the extra day that the 11-day itinerary has that the 10-day itinerary doesn't. It's a Good Thing!

I have little to say about the day's activities, because I spent most of the day napping. Yeah, apparently I hadn't gotten enough sleep during the bus rides, and needed more. Very restful, as the distance was short enough the ship was cruising at less than 7 knots instead of her usual 24+.

I did manage to rouse myself for the show, "Twice Charmed". Again we took our theater-fan friends along to get their reaction. It was the same cast as before, and the prince and princess hadn't obtained new voices in the mean time, so their solos were again the low points, but the voices of those playing Lady Tremain, Fairy Godmother, and the Grand Duke made up for it.

Our theater fan's judgement? "That was the best Disney production I've ever seen outside of Broadway." He also opined that with a few more songs and story to stretch it out it would be ready to join Disney's other theatrical productions. Some great original music, one song from "Cinderella" played in a minor key as Lady Tremain's number, and spot-on orchestrations (despite them all being played too loudly).

Make it a point not to miss "Twice Charmed" on your next cruise.


Dinner this night was the "Prince and Princess" menu. Having had it twice in three weeks, we've concluded that like the "Master Chef" menu, it's striving for a goal the kitchen isn't quite up to. The desserts in particular were unappealing, and two from our table bailed out to go see if PJ would let them have pistachio ice cream at Palo.

SWMBO was particularly distressed as there were two cheesecakes (which she detests) and was reduced to having just a dish of ice cream. She caused our most excellent server much distress by declaring, "This is the worst dessert menu I've ever seen!"

She's not very diplomatic, but she's not far wrong.

[Colexis Mom]

More great updates Bruce